BYNG'S RIDE INTO THE WEST, 1782

A Ride Into the West, August 1782.

quarterly argent and sable, in the 1st a lion rampant or.

Tour Writing is the very Rage of the times; It is Selldom that I am in the fashion, but fashions change so quickly, that I am obliged, in their round, sometimes to find myself a Man of Mode. Every one now describes the Manners and Customs of every County through which they pass, ... ...

Summary

Saturday, 24 August 1782

on the road to Pool: from London; ... through Stains, Middlesex; Bagshot, and turn off at the Golden Farmer, Surrey; across a corner of Hampshire, passing Farnborough Park; to Farnham, Surrey.

...

Now may I pass a tranquil Night,

By Noises undisturb'd, or Sprite,

Or troubled with Night Mare;

In happy slumber drawn to Bliss,

Assured that By its balmy Kiss

None else presume to Share

At earliest Blush of dawning Day,

Tomorrow I will haste away,

My Journey to begin;

And with elate Attention, mark

That early Choirester The Lark

At Heavens high Portal sing:

Thus like the Bee, when Morning greets

Of every Flowerlet taste the Sweets,

In busy Transport Strive;

Laden with Honey of the Mind,

In Health returning I shall find

Contentment in my Hive.

Still the Black Heath continued, and at the Summit of the first Hill is an Ale-house called the Golden Farmer, from a collecting Farmer who grew rich by his depredations, and whose Gallows yet remains upon the Heath. Here I turned Left, (upon a new Road to me), ...

...

Near Farnborough are some gay looking Houses, and the small Park of Squire Willmot; opposite to which is the Odd Sign of Tumble-Down Dick, a Man falling drunk from his chair. The Black Heath here recommences, and continues near to Farnham, ...

...

The Road from Farnham is most enchanting; On the left the well-wooded Forest of Holt; and the Villages of Bentley, Froyle, and Holyport, thro' which I pass'd, are neat, and embellished with good Houses, and Gentlemens Seats. The Country was so bewitching, and the Evening so warm and gay, that I could not hasten, but was near two Hours getting to Alton, a pleasant Market Town, at the end of this charming Vale; for the Country now rises, and at the sign of the Old Windmill changes into a good Fox-Hunting Walk.

from Farnham, Surrey; through Alton, Alresford, Winchester, Rumsey, by Malwood Castle, then Ringwood, Hampshire; and into Dorset.

...

through Salisbury, Wiltshire; then M. Wallop, Andover, Whitchurch, Basingstoke, Sherfield, Hampshire; ...

In my way I receiv'd a Pint of warm Milk from the Hands of a very pretty Wench at an Alehouse on Rockwell-Heath, the sign of the Anchor, and underneath written Castle-Comfort: (for which I want an explanation). I thought I preceiv'd here much Beauty in the female Peasantry, and so I suppose I shall go on fancying till I arrive at Perfection at my Journeys End.

My intention was to have stop'd at Alresford (20 Miles from Farnham) a Town of the same look and consideration, with Alton; but on Arrival there, finding it was only seven Miles to Winton, and thinking that pushing forward might save a day in my Journey, I pass'd boldly by the Star, (a promising looking Inn); and tho' I saw the Evening change, and black Clouds arise, was rash enough to proceed, (not considering that a great Town is the worst place for a Horse Traveller, and that I was breaking thro' all my old Rules:) but I was yet to be taught, and learn from experience. On then I went to my Misery, when I could have been snug, and comfortable, at Alresford, for I had not got two Miles, e'r the Rain and Wind drove me into Repentance; but then it was too late to return, So thro the remaining Road of steep, and exposed Hills, I hurried on to Winchester, as vexed with myself, as ever Man was; it being just such an Evening as I have after return'd in from a November Hunt. Wet and tired, I put up at the George Inn [Very bad; with horrid stabling] at Winchester; where from my Portmanteau, and want of Attendants, no civil treatment cou'd be got, or for some time any Room for myself; till at last by calling about me lustily, I avoided being put in a Room with Servants; and by dint of perseverance; took care of myself, my Horse, and my Dog, heartily repenting of not stopping at Alresford, where I should have been respected, and at my ease. Here, at last, did I procure (another) boild Chicken for my Supper, and Pen and Ink for my Entertainment, and so betwixt eating; Writing; Dog; and Horse; passd the time till the Hour of retiring arrived.

The Road from Farnham to Alton is very beautiful. The Country so rich, and neat in Cottages, and so well filld with Gentlemens Seats: From Alton, I saw little; so thick was the Rain.

Here [Winchester] are quartered the Anglesea and Northampton Militia; tho at present there are but few Prisoners in the Kings House. David Tyrie, the Spy, was taken from the Gaol this Morning in a Coach and Six, to be carried instantly, to the Place of Execution at Portsmouth.

Sunday, 25 August 1782

Sunday August 25th

My Bed was equally unpleasant with the rest of my treatment, and adding as little to my Composure; Sleep was not to be found, and thro' the night I sweated on a soft featherbed and dirty blankets, wishing for the mornings light. I had then a long Business of dressing, brushing, and bracing myself with Coffee; and here, forsooth, a sixpenny Barber could only adonise me with pink pomatum, and brownish powder. Now the Drum-beating calld me to take a Review of the Parade, in the Cathedral Church Yard; whence a large Guard, daily marches to do duty on the Prisoners of War, confined in the Kings House.

This is a miserable deserted Intention of Royalty, of which I never cou'd see, or hear of, the original Plan; But to all appearance it would have been an unsightly, ill situated Palace, without Beauty , or Retirement. A street was to have been built from the Palace to the Cathedral.

I was the only Spectator at the Parade, and relief of the Guard; and knowing the Capt. of the Northampton [Capt. J Chuckle. at school] I communed with him on Military Topics. Their band of Musick was noisy, and dirty; so likewise were their Men. One thing that appeard very ridiculous, and offensive to me, was the Light Infantry round Waiscoat Jacket, which I observ'd to Capt J. was meant very well for an Enemy, who would never see their behinds; but not so well for home Service; He answer'd that the Dress was taken from Harcourts Dragons; and so, because a Regiment of Cavalry, who on foot wear Trowsers, are rounded, a foolish Imitation is to take place in the Infantry. I afterward lookd, thro the Rails in front of the Palace, at the prisoners of War, (all Dutch) who seemd very happy, and high in Diversion at Skittles.

This Palace will probably, be soon pull'd down, and its materials sold with the rest of the Crown Possessions, and the Forest Lands. The Bishops House, likewise, which served for Barracks in the Year 1756 for the Hessian Troops, must quickly moulder into Ruins.

A Bishop, as well as a Colonel, in my mind, should reside frequently at Head Quarters, dispensing Care, Attention, and Civilities; not revelling away in a distant Country, remote from his Clergy, and diocese.

The Cross in the High Street is very light, and beautiful; it was built by Edward ye IIId, and contain'd four Statues, of which a mutilated one only now remains.

I next visited The Venerable Old Cathedral, of which I can speak as cleanly kept; and that The Old Monuments of Cardinal Beaufort, of Bishop Fox, and of Bishop Wainfleet, are in very good Repair, the two latter being kept up by Colleges in Oxford.

The New Screen before The Choir, built by Sr. C. Wren, is very plain, and neat, but not at all in the Church or Gothic Style; and the two bronze Figures of King James 1st, and King Charles 1st, are entirely out of Character, and Situation.

The Choir is well fitted up with Old Oak Stalls; and the Organ is, as it shoud be, on one Side; but the New Picture, painted by West, for the Altar Piece, (tho' much admired, I doubt not,) is too glaring, and like the Ombrev Chinoises; not in my mind to be compar'd to the Old Gothic Altar Pierce.

The Service was more irregularly perform'd than I ever remember to have heard it, and to a most shabby Congregation, none but the Winchester Boys, and a few Wanderers being present; The Belief after the Communion Service was chaunted to a Tune, like God save The King. Over The Chancel Screen, are five Trunks containing The Bones of Saxon Kings: But here are No Cloisters, or Chapter House. The carved Work round the Font is truly ancient, and represents (as I conceive) those who came with Offerings, and to be bless'd by the Bishop: No doubt, but it has been well explain'd ...

An Old Legend relates That The Monks of St. Swithin, in Winchester, threw themselves prostrate at the Feet of King Henry IId, and with many Tears complained to him that The Bishop of the Diocese, to whom they were subject as their Abbot, had withdrawn three of the usual Number of their Dishes. Henry enquired of them how many still remained; and being informed they had ten, he said, That he, himself was contented with three, and imprecated a Curse on the Bishop if he did not reduce them to that Number.

I had neither the Time nor Curiosity to Visit The County Hospital or the College for Clergymens Widows.

I left Winton, as soon as possible; and an Inn [The George], dirty, insolent, and ill-conducted. The hilly, and open Country lasts to the Village of Hursley, where Sr. Thos Heathcote has a good House, and an extensive Park: The Church has been lately rebuilt of Red Brick, and of course looks very ugly: The Maypole is the most sumptuous I ever saw. I have quitted the Hills, and open Country, for a gravelly Soil, and a well wooded Cultivation, where the Trees are not ruind (as in most parts of England) by being shroved into the Shape of a Broom. After I had passd thro Aufield, I enter'd a delicious foresty Wood, that continued almost, to Rumsey. My Horse, at entering Rumsey was very troublesome, from his terror at the Flies, and would neither eat there, or suffer any person to come near him; At first I suppos'd him to be ill, till The Hostler said, 'I see your Horse cannot endure our Forest Flies, that drive them frantic, and which you will not lose till you are in Dorsetshire': So this is a great drawback to a pleasant Riding of the New Forest. Rumsey is a Large Town, in a good Country, and has two parishes, tho' but one Church, which is roomy, and wherein they are now erecting a New Organ, in place of one (as the Clerks wife told me) demolisht by O. Cromwell; who certainly to the Mischief he did, has had a great deal since added.

A Neat Monument has been lately erected to the Memory of the late Lady P...r; but the Inscription is mean and pitiful, and what any mason might have written: I thought that her Lord piqued himself on being esteemed a Man of Letters, but this is A Monument to the Contrary.

No information of my Road cou'd be got here, so I must proceed by the Map as a Mariner does by his Compass; for neither Hostler, nor Waiter, knew a Mile from the door, and A Landlord would scorn to wait upon me. My former Intention was to have slept here to night; which in the practice would have been very unlucky, as The House was filld with Company, for tomorrows Fair. I enquired, in vain, for Venison, but was fortunate to meet with an excellent Pigeon-Pye, with a Pint of good Port Wine, which inspir'd me:-

Pri'thee tell me, what can vie,

Or eat like A Pigeon-Pye

Nought so pleasing to the Eye,

As a charming Pigeon-Pye

If my Appetite is high,

What's so good as Pigeon-Pye

Or so proper to put by,

As well relishd Pigeon-Pye

Fools at this may call out Fie

and deride A Pigeon-Pye

But all those who Good Cooks try,

Doat on well-eggd Pigeon-Pye

Ever let me till I die,

Taste the Charm of Pigeon-Pye

That you may not think I lye,

Ask a well made Pigeon-Pye.

Sr. P's House, and Park, adjoin to this Town, and I believe well worth the seeing; but knowing Him; having no one to participate; and being eager to get forward; I did not attempt the going in.

I had nearly forgotten to mention an ever-to-be remembered Monument, in Winton Cathedral, to the memory of Sr. Thos. Cloberry, Aid de Camp to Genl. Monk, who is dressd out in the ridiculous cumbersome habits of those days, with an amazing Wig, and Gloves, and surrounded with more Sash than any Modern Miss.

On leaving Rumsey, from the Bridge is a good view of Ld P's seemingly well built House, with a clear rapid River in front; but I should object to the Vicinity, and Impertinence of a Town Neighbourhood. In about 5 Miles I enterd The New Forest, which I had long greedily desired to visit, while it continued in a foresty State, and before The Axe had done its worst. Were these noble Magnificences properly preserved, Our own Navy might rise from The English Oak, without having Recourse to other Countries, for our National Defence: But neglected, and wasted, as they now are, Perhaps an Enclosure were better, than their thus continuing A Wilderness of Waste. On Entering The Forest a wood presents itself for the first Mile, but not to compare with The Timber and Beauty of The Forest of Dean, which I visited last Year, and which exceeds every thing I ever saw. From this Wood I crossd a Black Heath, where I met two Gangs of Smugglers, whom I wonderd not to have oft'ner seen in my Ride. At a Place call'd Stone-Cross, where there is a good looking Inn, with a great Prospect, I enquired for the Place where Willm Rufus was Slain; and was directed to it.

The Spot is marked by a Trilateral Stone, enclosed by a Rail, set up here in the Year 1745 by Lord Delawar; On one Side of which He tells us that He remembers the original Tree growing there (which must be impossible, from the amazing distance of time); On another Side is related The Manner of the Kings Death; and on a third, An Account of his being carried off, in one Purkess's cart, to Winchester to be buried. A most noble Relation truly! Most nobly Written; and not unworthy of so Noble, and so great A Man!

This detour threw me something out of my way: The Forest ceases two Miles above Ringwood, where I arrivd at half past six o' clock; for I dreaded Darkness, and Stormy Mists. It was then so early that I took a Walk over the Bridge; and counted on the adjoining Lake 35 Swans belonging to Ld Arundel, as Ld. of the Manor, making a very grand Appearance; They vary that often there are double that Number. I enquired if the River was Navigable to this place, but cou'd not explain myself, till a Man told me I certainly meant Navigal and that it was not. Churchill says That the way-worn Guest roams thro' the Church yard &c So did I for a little Amusement, till Supper Time, and found it on several Grave Stones; of which the following I remember

In Jesu Christ put you your trust

Prepare therefore to follow us

A good rhyme

If Heaven be thus Glorious

Lord, Why must I keep thence;

What Folly i'st that makes me loth

To die, and go from hence.

Death why so fast? Pray stop your hand,

And let my glass run out its Sand;

As neither Death nor Time will stay,

Let us improve the present Day.

Rather a subject for a Cheerful Glee, than a moral momento for a Church Yard.

Ringwood is not so large a Town as Rumsey, but the Inn (The Crown) is much better placed; and I was well waited upon. I could get but blind Intelligence of my Road, for neither Master, nor Ostler, were ever farther than twenty Miles to the Westward. Straw is so scarce here, that the Horses are bedded with fern and Oats are raised to twenty five Shillings pr Quarter! When they rise still higher, it is to be hoped that Horses will decrease; and that the Farmer will learn the Wisdom of using Oxen.

I supp'd on a Grey Mullet, which Fish are caught on the neighbouring Sea-Coast, whence they say they have many good Fish in the Season, but all at a Price. I do not believe; but only think it must be an Inn Account, to keep up with their Charge; As for A Grey Mullet, he is strong, and Oiley, and not much superior to a Chub, nor would any Dressing, (even from a receipt of Mr Waltons,) render him palatable.

I sleep ill on my Journey, because I am forced into Supper eating, which is totally against my practice; being obliged to Order, I think myself obliged to eat. I must rise early, tomorrow morning, if I mean to reach my Journeys end; for They will tell me that the Road is Intricate and bad, and the Miles in number many; So I must resolve upon being away in good time, and to make two Halts.

Poor Jock begins to flag, but he has behaved beyond my hopes; and this evening he harassd himself on the scent of the Hares in the Forest. I expected to have seen many Deer in my ride this Evening, but discoverd only four; and I also hoped to have found A Plenty of their Flesh; But The waiter said it was very scarce as being well watched: They tell a different Story in the Forest of Dean, where A Cut of Venison Pasty is allways to be had.

This was a bright day and the Evening Clear, with a good Harvest Moon; but a Fire begins to be an excellent Companion.

Monday, 26 August 1782

Of all the Beds I ever lay in, that of last night, was the very worst, for there could not be more than fifty Feathers in the Bolster, and Pillow, or double that Number in The Feather Bed; so there I lay tossing, and tumbling, all night, without any Sleep, or Place to lay my Head upon, tho' I rowld all the Bolster into one heap.

I find that I must travell with a Servant to attend my Horse, make my Bed, and give me Consequence: it is wretched to Want a Friend to share our Miseries, and Pleasures; to lighten the one, and Elevate the other.

By seven o' clock, I was on Horseback; and crossed much bleak, heathy, Country, till near Longham, where I passd an Handsome River over a long stone Bridge.

...

coming from Ringwood, Hampshire; across Dorset border; leave the Pool road to the right, cross Creekmore bridge, through Litchet, Wareham, Melcomb, to Weymouth, Dorset.

rides out of Weymouth, to Sandfoot Castle, around the Isle of Portland, Dorset.

from Weymouth, though Dorchester, Tolpuddle, Blandford, Dorset; on the road towards Salisbury, Wiltshire.

Saturday, 7 September 1782

... From Salisbury The Road continues very open, Steep, and unpleasant, without any Object to amuse the Attention: In the way I met Mr C. and saw a party of Shooters; then the Thought of Hunting employ'd me till my Arrival in at Andover, (White Hart, and Star) where I made a long Stay, and dined very uncomfortably. In all this Road the Stables are very bad, from the Universal Fashion to go post; The higher that is taxed the better, and then good Road Horses again may be had, and good Stabling again may be found. I prolonged my Stay here till the latest, in hopes of getting a Return Chaise for Jock, and to avoid the Heat. I never dined worse, or was in a crosser humour about it; A little miserable Stale Trout, some raw, rank, Mutton Chops and some cold, hard Potatoes. For the sake of hasty Gain, innkeepers hire horrid Servants, buy bad Provisions, and poisonous Liquor; Wou'd any Man dare, with a large Capital, to set up A good Inn, with the best Beds, and Wine, He would get a fortune, let him charge ever so highly. I am more and more convinc'd that Fowls are the only thing to bespeak at an Inn, as every other dish is either ill'dress'd, or the leavings of other Companies.

/ at Andover was a Cell, belonging to St Florence of Saumurs.

My first Intention was to have bedded at Overton, but hoping to find better Accommodation at Basingstoke, I push'd forward: My Horse went well, and my poor dog with difficulty crawld along. The Road from Andover is, in many places, not unpleasant. Ld Portsmouth has lately built, in Hurstbourne park, a large new House, instead of the old one that stood near the Road: The new House seems to be neither well-placed, nor of a good Model; for I am not of the present taste of clapping Houses upon Hill-tops, looking around them, in vain, for Wood and any Water. Whitchurch is a mean Borough Town, where I saw many Dutch Prisoners. Two Miles from Whitchurch is the cool looking Village of Laverstock; and further on, the little dirty Town of Overton, where Silk Mills have been lately erected, that seem to bring benefit to the Place ...

I allways pass with Regret a House at a small distance from the Road, whose late owner (Mr B.) I much esteemed, and where I have been well received; But now I ride by - tho' I am as zealous of Relationships as can be, and wou'd go as far as cou'd to serve one: But the present Dowager Possessor, an artful wordly Woman, of a notable self-sufficient Capacity, is not selon mon gout; and her Son is little better than a blockhead.

I arriv'd at Basingstoke at 7 o' clock, where I found an Inn of good Fare, and had a Sole and a Rabbet for Supper. The Wheat is all housed, but the Barley is not yet ripe enough for cutting; which is a great preservative of The Game. As usual I took a short evening Walk.

Sunday, 8 September 1782

Sunday Septr 8th

I would not have it suppos'd that I am ever finding fault, or know not how to commend. The Inn of last night (The Crown) I may praise for its good Larder, good Stabling, and good Beds; and if I did not sleep in mine, it was only owing to my eating Supper, which allways disagrees with me, but is not to be avoided at an Inn after a long Ride.

This Morning, after some difficulty of rousing the Waiter and Chambermaid, (who, no doubt thank me for my kindness) I left Basingstoke at six o' clock.

At the end of Basingstoke are the Remains of The Old Chapel of The Holy Ghost, now in Ruins, which is reported to have been beautifully carved within, and without, and Tradition says that the Lead of the Roof was melted into Bullets to serve at the Seige of Basing-House. From this Ascent, there is a good view over the Town, and to the Duke of Boltons Park at Hackwood. In a Miles riding I overtook a conversable Farmer and We jogg'd on together being both bound for Reading; but soon, Oh Grief of Griefs! my Horse went miserably Lame, as if he had wrench'd his Foot; The Farmer said it would walk off, but the poor Beast being unable to move, I dismounted to examine his Foot, into the Frog of which a great Horse-Nail had enterd so deeply, that with difficulty we cou'd extract it. As soon as possible we stopp'd at a Blacksmiths, who burnt in some Turpentine, which, secur'd by Tow, enabled my Horse to go on tolerably.

The Road so changes from Hills, Stones, and Openess to Level, Wood, and Gravel, as to persuade me I never had a pleasanter Ride; for the Country is rich in Trees, Cottages, and neat Farm Houses. On entering Reading, ...

Byng, John & Adamson, D (ed): 1996: Rides Round Britain: Folio Society