|
South Coast Harbours 1698
report by Edmund Dummer and Thomas Wiltshaw |
|
|
Text transcription
|
|
A SURVEY of the Ports on the South West Coast of England
from Dover to the Lands-end.
BY Edmd Dummer Surveyor & Capt. Tho. Wiltshaw Esqrs.
Comrs. of his Ma Navy together wth. Capt. James Conaway
& Capt. William Cruft Masters of Trinity House at
Deptford
DELINEATED in July & Augst. 1698
|
|
|
|
Adressed By way of Letter to the Principal Officers and
Comrs. of his Maties. Navy.
|
|
|
|
Gentn. |
Orders to Survey
ye: Coast
|
Having receiv'd Your directions grounded upon the Orders of
the Rt. Honble the Lords of the Admty. of the 6th: of June
last, For taking a Survey of the Ports Westward of Dover as
farr as the Isle of Wight and thence to the Lands-end, and
to give their Lopps. an Account which way, and at what
Charge they may be made most usefull for ye Navy
|
When ye Survey
Com~enced
|
Wee did in pursuance of the Same proceed on the said Services
ye 4th. July last, and doe now present You with an Account of
all that Wee judge observable of Them, with relation to
the purposes of the said Order And thereunto Wee have annex'd
a Description of each Place with referrances to the
remarkable particulars of each Draught as their Condition
and place respectively require for their Explanation.
|
|
And to the end You may take a fitt impression of the
advantages conceivable to be reaped by improvements for
the Services of the Navy, Within the Generall tract of the
Sea Coast which is menconed in the said Order, besides what
may be done at those Places which are already in use; Be
pleas'd in the First place
to
|
|
|
|
to Observe that the particular Places Wee have Viewed for
the Same stand Named in their Course & Scituation from
the said Port of Dover Westward as follows Vizt.
|
What place were
Surveyed
|
Havens
|
|
|
1 |
Rye |
|
2 |
Pemsey |
|
3 |
Cookmere |
|
4 |
Newhaven |
|
Rivers |
|
|
5 |
Shoreham |
|
6 |
Arundall |
|
7 |
Hampton |
|
8 |
Bussleton |
|
9 |
Beauley |
|
10 |
Lymington |
|
11 |
Christ Church |
|
Ports |
|
|
12 |
Poole |
|
13 |
Weymouth |
|
14 |
Exmouth |
|
15 |
Dartmouth |
|
16 |
Fowey |
|
17 |
Falmouth |
|
18 |
Helford |
|
|
No remarkable
place omitted
|
By which Catalogue and by viewing the Description of the said
Sea Coast in your Comon Mapps, you will perceive Wee have
refused noe remarkable Place how inconsiderable or unfitt
soever it might be for the purposes Wee were to enquire
after; Lest the Overlooking any of them might leave room to
doubt that compleatness in our Account as to the Sum Totall
of Places wch. Wee conceive in an implyed Sence was intended
to resolve the whole Question, Namely Whether there be any
beside the Ports now in use upon the sd. Sea Coast capable
of improvements, and which way and at what Charge to be made
most usefull for the Navy.
And having said thus much for a preliminary to the whole,
Wee shall proceed particularly upon each of them in their
Order before recited, Begining wth: the Antient Port of
Rye.
|
|
|
|
Rye
|
Rye Surveyed
Incapable of
use for ye Navy
|
To which Place wee came the 5th: of July 98 and were Assisted
by the information of the most Ancient and best Observing
Persons dwelling there, Who acquainted us in how much
beeter Condition this Haven was known to be in former
Times within Memory and what they Esteemed to be the reason
of the Great decay of it, at this day and for the
better discerning the inconveniences and Evills it hath
been attended with to this Time, Wee viewed with much
exactness the Barrs without, and the Banks and inclosures
within towards Winchelsea and Appledoor and caused a
Draught thereof to be made for the further illustration
thereof to Com~on Judgement, and upon the whole of what wee
saw and Observed of the Circumstances of this Place, wee
are easily induced to make this Determination in our
Opinion; That it is in no Case proper for a safe Harbour
to resort to, nor capable to be improv'd by any tollerable
charge for any Services of the Navy for the following Reasons.
|
Reasons thereof
1st.
|
There is a very high Sand Westward of the Entrance of the
Haven, which Runs above two Miles in Length without the
Mouth thereof; The Channell or Gutt towards the Haven lyeth
on the East side, and is for the whole Length of the said
Sand, One continued Barr of not above 4 and soe to 2 foot
depth at Low Water, and makes it impracticable for the
smallest Vessells to venture in but when the Tyde is Aloft
or Lifting and smooth Water.
|
|
|
2ly.
|
The Harbour within likewise at Low Water time is all Dry
Sand except some Gleeting of Freshes from the Country, and
all the Space of Water that is therein when the Tyde is out,
lyes in the very entrance of the Haven, and just within
it capable only of Floating a few Fisher Boates.
|
3ly.
|
The encroachments and Inning of the Lands upward in the
Country, and the infinite Mass of Matter that Floates in
the troubled Sea, wth. wch. all Weathers, and Tydes
are Constantly Working to fill the same, have almost shut the
Sea out of this Haven And wee doubt it would be very
difficult to propound an effectuall means to remove it,
unless it may be possible to be brought to pass to give the
Sea the same freedom of Flux and Reflux, as it is presumed
by Antient Tradition to have had for near 30 Miles into
the Country tho' now Confin'd to less then 3 Miles Course
that way, But the Propriety of Sundry Persons and the Policy
of the Servers in severall Ages past, have wholly Dam'd it
out, and doubtless will be very unwilling to abandon the
Wast wch. have been from time to time taken in at great
Expences, Therefore Wee look upon this Haven as entirely
lost, at least in noe Condition to be Esteemed for any
Services of the Navy as Wee have before Observed.
|
|
|
|
Pemsey. |
Scituation
|
Is the next River Westward and likewise Noted to have been
in former time a Considerable Haven, The Remains of a very
large Antique Castle yet in being seems to admit that
Conjecture, That with the Town is Scituate about a Mile from
the Wash of the Sea, and about 5 or 6 Miles Eastward of the
Head of Beachy. |
Condition of
the River
Alteration in
few years
|
The River passes thro' a large levell piece of Ground up
towards the Wild of Sussex, about 4 or 5. years since, (as
we were told) Vessells of 50 and 60 Tuns took in their Lading
at the Bridge of the Town, But of late a shutt hath been
made upon the River it self very near the Havens Mouth
beyond wch: no Vessells can now pass.
|
The use of it
irrecoverable
|
These Levells as those of Rye are without doubt in great
part recovered from the Sea, and howsoever Considerable
this Haven may have been, 'tis now in our Opinion
irrecoverably lost, for a Vessell of 14 Tuns meets wth:
great difficulty to get within the Mouth of it, and as much
to get out, therefore proper for no use in the Service of
the Navy.
|
|
|
|
Cookmere |
Never was
considerable
|
Scituate a little to the Westward of Beachy Head is a very
small Fresh, and the Levell about it of little
extent, nevertheless the same Custome of enclosing the
Wast Ground within the Flux and Reflux of the Tydes have
likewise prevailed, however there is very little to be
taken notice of at this Place for the improvements Wee
are seeking.
|
|
|
|
New-Haven |
How Scituate
The condition
of the Haven
The decay there
of incapacity
|
Is distant from Cookmere about 4 Miles Westward, and Stands
upon the River wch: goes to Lewis and the Wild of Sussex,
about a Mile and quarter from the Wash of ye. Sea, and
is likewise very inconsiderable being stopped up and Barr'd
by the same means wch: hath rendered the forementioned
Havens useless Namely by enclosing the Wast in the Levells
about the same, and excluding the indraught of the Sea, that
in all probability in former times had greater freedom to
flow in and out, and kept the Channell deep and open, But
there are now noe Qualifications to be discerned proper for
the Navy.
|
|
|
|
Shoreham. |
The River a
considerable
Fresh Water
The Circumstances
of ye: Harbour
and ye. Barr
before it
not capable of
improvement
|
The next Place Westward of Newhaven hath likewise suffered
the same Fate wth: those foregoing, This River is the
Comon dreine of a very great Portion of the County of Sussex
the Remains of the Ancient Castle of Bramber lyeth about 4
Miles above the Town whence one might take it to have been a
Port invested wth: much better Circumstances heretofore, now
it admits nothing improveable; The Havens Mouth is a dry
Barr upon the Ebbs of Spring Tydes, and the out Sea, in
foul Weather throws up Exterordinary Quantityes and heaps
of Beach in the manner of small Islands, sometimes here
and sometimes there in the very Mouth of it, And whether you
come in or goe out you meet with great difficulty, and
Hazard, They continue to Build new Shipps from 300
Tuns downwards, and waiting good Seasons with proper Care,
they get them into the Sea; But wth: relation to our enquirry
wee discerne nothing to be accounted for.
|
|
|
|
Arundell |
The Evills the
same here as at
ye: foregoing
places
|
The last River Westward (of any Moment) in the County of
Sussex falls also under the like Evills those before
recited suffer for doubtless the Length, and extension of
its Levells have layn more open to the Sea then now they doe.
|
Seems incapable
of reamedy
Nature of impedimt.
|
The Town lyeth wth:in the Mouth of it, if the crookedness
be respected about 6 Miles, But by Land and more direct,
'tis accounted 4 Miles, between the One and the Other here
is likewise the Remaines of an Ancient, & Eminent Castle
But nothing to be found proper for those improvements wee are
to search, Because the unhappy Judgements of past times
taking its advantage to be in Robbing the Sea of its Wast,
have repelled the influx thereof, and the reflux thereby
becoming Gradually remiss by like Degrees became unable to
remove the Weight of matter which is ready to Lodge in all
uneven places, and even much greater Channells, Whensoever
the Common Current thereof shall become too feeble to resist
the Drift of the Waves that in a Constant Course, and Motion,
are alwaies as it were labouring to Choake up.
|
The Effect
thereof the same
alwais where
encroachments
are made
|
For this Beach appeareth, at this Rivers Mouth to lye about
10 feet above the Levell of the Sea without at Low Water, And
the Tydes flowing here 19 or 20 ft. upon the Springs (&
much the same att all the Places before recited) 'tis about
half Flood before any indraught is made into it, Whence it
seems likely from the same Obstruction that the Raines drown
all the uplands during ye. Winter, there being not time nor
space enough at the Havens Mouth to discharge them between
the fall of one and the rise of ye. next Flood.
|
|
This impedimt. is the same in Proportion at all the other
Places wee have spoken of, And may stand for ye. true Cause
of Drowning all their Levells during the Winter Season, and
the Daming up all their Channells or Courses of Water, wch:
are absolutely necessary and make deep and proper Roades
for Shipping.
|
|
|
Between Arundell
& Portsmouth no
Ports or Havens
improveable
|
Wee passed by Chichester observing only that there are many
small Currents of Fresh Water, and breaking into the low
Lands by the Flux of the Sea between it and Portsmouth in
and about the Islands of Selsea and Hailing, But all
Passages into the same from the Seaward being Covered by the
East Burroughs the dangerous Rocks called the Oares, and
the Sands of the Horse; There is no Room among them for
any improvement for the Navy nor did there appear to be any
Place fitting to Build a Shipp of the 4th. Rate within any of
the Havens of those mentioned Islands upon the enquiry which
was made thereof about 4 Years since by your own Directions.
|
The excellency
of the Ports of
Portsmo~ & ye.
Roades within
the Isle of
Wight
|
Portsmouth the next place in Scituation tho' not mentioned in
our Catalogue, nor Subject to our present enquirie, For
that having been in use many years, and its improvemts.
much Augmented in the late long Warr wth: France, And if
need require is still Capable of greater Additions
'tis sufficient to name it in a Course of Succession only,
for our more orderly coming to places of the next
consideration, However before wee leave it, Wee Crave liberty
to say a few Wordes in Consideration of it wth: respect to
the Parts adjacent Namely Spithead, Stoakes Bay, Cowes,
and Yarmo~ Roades, the Waters of Hampton, Bussleton, Beauly
and Lymington all inclos'd and Shelter'd by the Isle of Wight
and Hurst Castle, and doe Adminester the most
desireable Advantages either for easy and safe approaches in
or going out to Sea, Security at Anchor, Close and
Convenient Harbours for Building and repairing Shipps of
any Burthen sufficiently Capacious
and
|
|
|
|
and abounding with all Navall Conveniences; in a word
the Scituation of the places thus mentioned in and about ye.
said Island seem to offer all that is to be desired, for
the Susteining and preserving the greatest Navall strength in
the World.
|
|
|
|
Southampton &c.
|
The Scituation
& convenience
of Hampton River
|
This Draught is incerted to shew the Noble and
extensive convenience of those parts, just before spoken of,
wth: Relation to Portsmouth Vizt.
Their Scituation respectively and their Shelter By the Island
of Wight from St. Hellens point in the East to Hurst Castle
in the West, accounted to be Eighteen Miles in Length.
The River of Southampton alone is very considerable,
'tis reckoned from Calshott Castle to the Town eight
Miles distance of Good and even Soundings and sufficiently
deep for any Shipp the flatt Ouze on each side is of
large Demention, even and of small Declivity , soft and safe
for any Body to rest on; In short whatever Hazard
or inconvenience is to be feared of Rocky and Stony passages
and Shoares or Sandy Shoales these offer no Danger.
At and about the Town during the late Warr severall Shipps of
80, 60 & 50 Guns have been Built and Launched and
safely carryed to Portsmouth.
And for other particulars the annexed Draught will discover them.
|
|
|
|
Bussleton
|
The convenience
of it described
|
Is a small River upon the East side of that of Hampton as
soon as you enter it by Calshott Castle 'Tis near 5 Miles
from the Mouth of it to the Village of that Name; the Channell
is narrow but Deep and safe, here likewise hath been Built
some of the 20 and 60 Gun Ships with great Accomodation
and Security. Over against Calshott lyes Cowes in the Isle
of Wight upon the Banks of a small indraught wch: Flowes
to Newport distinguished by the name of East and West Cowes,
at the First there is a good Building place and some of the
4th: and 5th: Rates have been there Built.
|
|
|
|
Beauley.
|
What its
Condition is
|
Is a River of somewhat less Consideration in Degree
than Bussleton, But of large indraught, good Tydes, and
fair Depths at low Water; 'tis about 4 Miles from the Mouth
of it to the Town of that name, Tis also convenient for
Building small Schipps One of the 4th: Rate hath been built
about a Mile below it, at a place Comodious and Safe.
|
|
|
|
Lymington.
|
The Qualifications
of the River
|
Is a place more short and Scanty in the Accomodations to be
found in Beauley River, than those there are to the same
at Bussleton, Nevertheless Shipps of good Bulk may be here
Built for the Merchant Service, Which is all in our Opinion
that it is to be Commended for.
|
|
|
|
Christ Church.
|
The Qualifications
of the Haven
|
River disembogues into the Sea in a Bay within the Shingles,
and about 3 Leagues without the Needles Westward The Town
lyes about 2 Miles from the Mouth of it, and yet the Flood
Tyde scarce Washes to it, And altho' there falls into this
Haven two Considerable Freshes, the one from Salisbury, the
other from Blandford, yet 'tis no Port for other Vessells
than of 80 Tuns downwards.
|
Mean Tydes and incapable
of improvement
|
Great Banks of Sand lye before it and not more than 2 ft.
Water upon the Barr, nor Flowes on Spring Tydes more then 6
ft. upright, are insuperable impediments to those Offices,
the Workes of the Navy require, therefore utterly incapable
of such improvemts:.
|
|
|
|
Poole
|
The description
of the Haven
Nature of the
Tydes
Capable of no
improvement for
ye. Navy
|
In like manner tho' Assisted by a Considerable Fresh
from Dorchester, and is a Capacious Water when all its
Shoale Grounds are covered with the Tyde Nevertheless not
having above 8ft. Water for a great Space without the Mouth
of it at Low water, and that the Rise of the Spring Tydes doe
not exceed 8 ft. more, those very uncertain and remiss, The
Shoales very large, and the Channells very Crooked; There
are very few Vessells will venture into it when they can
choose to doe otherwise, The entrance into this Haven is
covered by Studland Point, The Town stands about 3 Miles
within the Haven, wch: together with its Generall
Scituation affords nothing in our Opinion proper or
improveable for the Service of the Navy.
|
|
|
|
Weymouth & Melcomb Regis
|
Description of
the Port
Incapable of
improvemt.
|
Stands upon a small Fresh from the Land Eastward of the Bill
and Road of Portland But here the Tydes rise no more than 7
Foot or thereabouts alike uncertain as at ye. two foregoing
Places, And have not above 3 ft. of Water in the Entrance to
the Harbour, Which to add no more are impediments that
preclude entirely all thoughts of improvemt for the Navy.
|
|
|
|
Exmouth.
|
Description of
the Rivers Mouth
Altogether unfit
for the
improvemts:
sought for
|
River further Westward and two Leagues short of Torbay is
found incombred wth: many inconveniences, the entrance into
it (which is about 7 Miles from the City of Exeter) is
almost filled wth: Rocks and Shoales continuing above a Mile
in Length, These divide the Water into various and
broken Channells and difficult passages, and seems
insuperable to any Ordinary use, soe that without enlarging
upon any other the inconveniences, and disadvantages
thereof; Here are noe Qualifications fit to be recommended
for any of our Emprovemts.
|
|
|
|
Dartmouth
|
Description of
the Harbour
Objections to
of good
Accomodation
|
About two Leagues Westward of Torbay is a Noble River,
but Scituated between mighty high Land especially at its
very Entrance, there wants no Water without or within it, nor
many other improveable advantages for Shipping Publique
or Private wch: may be referr'd to in a Survey taken by Order
of the Year 90 But by reason of the conceived Hazards of
Entring the same under the High lands and Rocky Shoares, it
seems to have been rejected, and the emprovemts: for the
Navy then intended were made in Ham=oze by Plymouth.
|
|
|
|
Fowey
|
Its Description
|
Is the next place in Order Westward to Plymouth as that is
to Dartmouth which wee leave to the improvements already made
and may be Augmented if the Service require it. (And
Observe that)
|
What is proper
for but not
adviseable to be
improved for the
Navy
|
This is Scituate in the Bottom of a deep bay about 3
Leagues within the Dead-man it has a bold entrance Water
enough within, but not much above half the space or extent of
the River of Dartmouth 'tis surrounded with very lofty Hills
as yt. is, And wee esteem it to serve upon great necessityes
to Shelter small Shipps if they lye fair for it, to avoid
more Eminent Dangers when they find themselves to much
Embayed, By the Ramhead and Dead-man, But not adviseable in
our Opinion to be chosen for any Services of the Navy.
|
|
|
|
Falmouth and Helford
|
Their Scituation
and Description
|
Lye both between the Dead-man & Lizard and are the
Principall that Remain to be Noted within the Bounds of our
Order on which wee have to remark as follows.
|
Surveyed in 93
referr'd to
|
That of Falmouth the nest Port to Fowey containes a great
Water extending by many Branches into the Country nevertheles
is clogged, wth: many inconvenient Shoales and suddain
Soundings, and therefore not very much frequented by Shipping
it was Surveyed by Order in the year 93, & judged not
to abound in those Qualifications wch: are proper for
the emprovement of the Navy as in the said Report are more
at large recited to wch: wee desire to be referred.
|
No conveniences
at Helford
adviseable to be
improved for
the Navy
|
Helford about 5 Miles West of Pendennis Castle is a River
which Runs East and West out and in, Small and inconsiderable
for Shipps of Warr, But convenient for the small Coasters
the Tinn and Corne Vessells and what that Country produces,
soe that wee doe not Observe any thing of Moment in
its Scituation extent or other Circumstances to
give encouragement of improvement for the Services of the Navy.
|
|
|
Observations
upon ye fore
recited Ports
& Rivers
|
These short Notes upon the Eighteen Places before Named
wee humbly think may be taken for their Just Characters,
and distinctions respectiveley, at least they seem so to us,
and craving leave to add a Short review of the whole shall
submit to better Judgement.
|
Of Rye Pemsey
Cookmere Newhaven
Shoreham &
Arundell
Generall reasons
of decay and
improbability of
repair
|
It may be observed that the Havens and Rivers of Rye,
Pemsey, Cookmere, Newhaven, Shoreham & Arundell are
now (whatever they have been) no proper Subjects for
improvement for the Navy, For want of that benefitt all
usefull Ports have Namely a sufficient indraught of the
Sea suitable to the rise of Tydes upon the same Coast that
there (on Springs are) Observ'd to be 19 & 20 ft.
upright, For industry by enclosing Wast on the One hand,
and Nature on the Other, By the plenty of Sullage the Sea
Washes from the higher Shoares and carrys about in Motion
to Lodge again in Places more confin'd and quiet, have by
Degrees not only filled Vast spaces once doubtless possessed
by the Sea wth: firme Ground But have likewise Choaked up
almost ye very passages of the Land Fresh which Naturally
tend to it soe that in these as in the decays of Naturall
things in Generall the Conduits and Channells of their being
are destroyed with themselves and Wee doubt without hopes
of reviving
|
Difference of
the Harbours
about the Isle
of Wight from
those of Sussex
|
The Ports of and about Portsmouth under ye. Shelter of the
Isle of Wight are Observ'd to abound in all ye
Accomodations those others are found to want, and altho'
these Harbours or recesses of Water doe fall short almost a
third of the hight of the Tydes Nature and their
Scituation affords the former, it Ordinarily flowing here but
14 ft. the highest which Abates their force and Weight
in Proportion, nevertheless these Channells are open, deep,
and profitable for all Commerce tho' at the same time also
they have less of the Country Freshes to help them.
|
|
|
Of X Church
Pool Weymouth &
Exmouth their
Originall
imperfections
and incapacity
for Shipping
|
Christ Church, Pool, Weymouth, and Exmouth appear to have
Other but more Originall imperfections than are found in
those of Sussex, those may have been great indraughts in
former times, But these seem never to have been Capable of
it, The Soile of the adjacent Land lyes in another Nature,
and the Tydes at highest seem to be not above 8 foot, and
those Both as remiss and uncertain as the Winds on which
their Motion mightily depends, so that their Agitation is in
no wise Capable of that force and virtue which the Service
of great Shipping call for, besides their Exits are Scituate
in great Bayes which render approaches to them more difficult.
|
Of Dartmouth
Fowey Falmouth
& Helford
how & what
circumstances
they differ from
all ye rest and
our opinion of
them.
|
Dartmouth, Fowey, Falmouth & Helford are places of
resort upon some occasions, And there are some particulars
at Dartmouth improveable for the Services of the Navy, But
in other Circumstances all these seem much more Subject
to Hazards for the intercourse of Shipping than those Places
do that are already in Use upon this Coast of England to
which our Order Confines us, wherefore upon the whole wee
see little good Grounds to recom~end or advise any Expences
or disbursements at any of the Places wee have mentioned
and Surveyed from Dover to the Lands-end, for their being
made usefull for the Navy - and Remain
|
Dated ye 19th.
Novbr. 1698
|
Gentn.
Yor. most humble Servts.
Edmd. Dummer. Thos. Wiltshaw
Jams. Conaway. Willm. Cruft.
|
|
|
South Coast Harbours 1698
report by Edmund Dummer and Thomas Wiltshaw |
|